Tehran: A once over

So we had a 2 night pit stop at Tehran. The idea was to go skiing on the Alborz but Gaelle is still recovering so we figured we'd leave the skiing for later on.
Tehran, if you read the Lonely Planet guide at this time of year is polluted, traffic a nightmare, people pleasant as ever, liberal women on the streets, weather chilly at best.
I would agree for all except one, I didn't see nor notice any pollution, at least nothing out of the ordinary. I'd also have to add that the Metro's here during peak hour make sardine cans feel like a luxury. The women here would not be out of place on the streets of Paris or Milan, chic, elegant and beautiful. Crossing streets in Tehran is a cross between swimming with alligators and breathing fire. One wrong step and you're mati. Obeying traffic lights here is a sign of civil disobedience. The weather is so cold that I slept in my shorts and t-shirt.
Ahh but for the people, from the congenial Mr. Moussavi of Firouzeh Hotel, to strangers on the street who were happy just to stop a minute and talk. But I'll reserve the biggest thank you for Vahid, the Zara store assistant where we got Gaelle less wintery clothing for winter. We sat down after, had cay, exchanged stories of our countries, listened to some good Pink Floyd, Lionel Richie and his favourite James Blunt. Vahid hasn't had it easy, yet still sees the romance of this life. A good lad, I only wish the best for him and may we meet again soon.
Oh yeah, we also tried to catch the play Hamlet in Tehran last night, 23/12. Too bad they were sold out.
Enroute to Esfahan now aboard this swanky bus, RM15. (7 hour journey). It's Christmas eve. Lots of love, Merry Christmas y'all.